Doug Scott has made 45 expeditions to the high mountains of Asia. He has reached the summit of 40 peaks, of which half were first ascents, and all were climbed by new routes or for the first time in Alpine Style.
Apart from his climb up the South West Face of Everest with Dougal Haston during Chris Bonington's Expedition of 1975, he has made all his climbs in lightweight or Alpine Style, without the use of artificial oxygen.
He has reached the highest peaks on all seven continents -"the Seven Summits”, been a past President of the Alpine Club and was made a CBE in 1994 by Queen Elizabeth II.
In 1999 he received the Royal Geographical Society Patron’s Gold Medal.
The main events of his climbing career are:
- The climbing of Everest by the South West Face with Dougal Haston
- Surviving the breaking of two legs near the summit of the Ogre (24,000 ft) and the 8 day descent to safety
- Making the first ascent of Kangchenjunga from the North West with Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker – in light weight style and without oxygen. This was the first time one of the big mountains had been climbed with such minimal support and without oxygen being available for climbing.
Photography: Doug Scott’s photographs have been on the front cover of mountain books than those of any other photographer. His work appears in his own book ‘Himalayan Climber – A photographic autobiography’.
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